Upon Arrival: Burgers, Driving and Getting to Work

Twelve hours in air on one of the world's top airlines did little to ease the ache in the Harringtons hearts. However, disembarking the aircraft to be reunited with their pup, who easily made it through customs as well as a sister and within an hour or so good friends from their first Korean year did help to bring peace and joy to this time of transition.

More traumatized than the human sort, Lady Annyeong was not too thrilled that she was required to stay in her kennel while the Harrington duo chatted it up with immigration officials stating that: Yes, indeed, the furry creature within the crate had been properly vaccinated. Yes, you may see her papers. Yes, we do in fact have some food for her. Two days worth to be exact. Do you care to see her or the food? Oh...no, well, okay. Thanks.

And just like that, the Harringtons exited customs to find Katie and Ashlee awaiting them. Lady Annyeong was quickly set free from her imprisonment and allowed to run and experience a new land for the first time, unfortunately for her the new 'land' was the parking lot of LAX. Fortunately, better exploration lay ahead for the sweet three-legged mutt.

From the airport, the crew made their way to Ashlee's house where Katie gathered her belongings and said her own farewell. Shortly thereafter, the Harrington trio and Lady Annyeong made their way to Kolt and Holly's place where they would spend their first American day in more than a year. The Harrington duo found comfort in knowing that just a year ago, Kolt and Holly had said fare-thee-well to the land of kimchi and remained connected to that time and place much as the Harringtons knew they always would be.

The Matiz Meets Jeju: Fanta Cans, Squid and Pirates

Waking up on a beautiful little knoll overlooking the ocean was nothing short of beautiful and tranquil. The Harringtons took their time walking the pup and breaking camp before loading into the Matiz and hitting the road with the goal being to end up in or near Seogwipo by evening.

Having scoured the map for unique and interesting things to do while on Jeju Island, the couple was intrigued by the possibility of taking a tour of the waters by none other than a submarine. Since there was a submersion site between their current location and the city of Seogwipo the two decided to check it out.

 Unfortunately, as the couple began their trek toward the submarine tour headquarters they were distracted by the rumble and grumble of what seemed to be a malfunctioning muffler. Unconvinced that they wanted to spend the coming days yelling over wind and muffler rumblings Mike had the bright idea to search out some 'tools' and take a go at patching up this slight nuisance.

So it was, the couple found themselves grabbing breakfast from a local 7-11 and sitting down with a Fanta can, pocket knife and electrical tape with the goal of decreasing the noise level of the sweet little Matiz for the duration of the trip (or for their days in Korea in all actuality).

Soon enough, things were patched and the noise level decreased...for a while at least.

Anseong Winery Tour and Grape Harvest 'Festival'

In order to bid farewell to the month of September, the Harrington's joined a meet-up group, loaded the car (primarily with their bodies, some maps and a handful of snacks) and made a quick jaunt north to Anseong, home of Kenneth Kim's Winery. Legitimately interested in wine-making and beer brewing, Mike was excited to see the inner workings of a Korean winery and Melissa was simply content in knowing she'd get to take in a fair share of complimentary wine throughout the day.

The trip began with a visit to a Grape and Wine history museum that culminated in dixie cup filled with grape vinegar which was surprisingly refreshing (at least, the first sip was). From the museum, our guide and host Ken politely acquiesced to a request to visit the French Catholic Missionary where Anseong's wine tradition began in 1901 according the Official Site of Korea Tourism. The abbey building was a unique combination of traditional Korean design and of course classic European cathedral design. The building today is an interesting contrast to the cement block church which greets visitors to the abbey.

Following these initial aspects of the day of wine, the Harrington's and meet-up crew made their way to a nice lakeside restaurant for a wide variety of traditional Korean dishes and the first samplings of Kenneth Kim's wines. Wines ranged from whites, to ports, to sherry's and other red varieties. There was no holding back on Ken's part and wine glasses remained full through the meal and two vocal performances from meet-up attendees who had professed and hidden talents in the world of music and performance.

With bellies finally filled the crew re-loaded the bus and made their way to the wine 'estates'. As is expected, Korea is not Napa Valley. That out of the way, the winery was ultimately right up the alley of Mike and Melissa with their humble Wyoming upbringing and acceptance of all things done with a dose of redneck thrown in. Highlights, other than the continuation of free-flowing wine included a dark, dank dungeon of a wine cellar, wine in large plastic bottles most generally associated with Culligan-type water systems, heavy-duty brick wall paper covering the small abode and the outrageously massive power line serving as a reminder that while you may be in the countryside, it remains that you are in fact on a small peninsula filled with millions of people who appreciate electricity.

Additional highlights of the hours spent on the estates were live music, grape chowing and grape stomping and walking away with complimentary bottles of wine.

The days events came with a number of opportunities to receive a discount these included 10,000 for joining this meet-up group, 10,000 for early-registration and 20,000 providing your own transport. So it was, the Harrington's each paid 40,000 for a day of touring and drinking, eating and drinking a bit more (but not so much as to be unsafe to drive) while walking away with a 30,000 won bottle of wine each. Overall, looks as the couple made out quite well.

For others thinking of touring, look for a good deal such as this and you should have no regrets. Remember you're in Korea, not California and you should have no regrets. Consider going with a meet-up group as you may luck out and meet a few individuals who are interesting, kind and willing to sell/give you some hops for brewing. You may also meet individuals with whom you disagree and could get on fine without ever meeting again, but you'll never know unless you try it!

Driving in Korea: Obtaining a Korean Driver's License

So you want to stop wasting time waiting in lines for buses, taxis, trains and subways, and have decided to join the world of convenience, high gas prices, perpetual taxi vs. scooter wars, and traffic jams, huh? Well, I hope you're up to the challenge of driving in Korea. The first challenge that presents itself is becoming a legal road warrior. You need to get a driver's license. There are three ways to become a legal driver in Korea:

1.) Obtain an International Driver's License. This can be done online, or in your native country before arriving in Korea. However, it can only be used as a valid Korean Driver's License for 1 year in before you have to convert it to a legitimate Korean Driver's License.

2.) Obtain a Korean Driver's License by using a license issued in your native country. This is the process that I recently went through, and will be writing about getting this done outside of Seoul, specifically in Daejeon. This requires handing over your native country's driver's license (it will be given back upon departure).

3.) Obtain a Korean Driver's License from scratch. This can be done at your city's Driver's License Office (운전면허시험장). You will have to take a written test (in English), a driving test, and attend a safety class. This doesn't require giving up your home country's license.


Still with me? Ok, so if you don't have an international driver's license, and you are willing to hand over your original driver's license, then step 2 is the way to go. In order to complete step 2 you will need the following:

A Private Anniversary of Sorts: Daecheong Lake, Daejeon

Having enjoyed their anniversary in the company of students, new friends and established friends, the Harrington's deemed it necessary and acceptable to set an evening aside for themselves. The couple loaded up the car with their faithful side-kick Lady Annyeong and a picnic dinner before making their way outside of Daejeon to Daecheong Lake.

The two enjoyed a simple pesto pasta, hard boiled eggs and home-made ginger ale on the lake shore before taking some time to explore this particular nook of the lake and capture a few 'family photos' while the lighting was perfect. The exploration of the lake shore not only offered serene scenery and opportune photo shots, exploration also included a healthy dose of adventure, particularly for the Lady and the Mrs.

Assuming walking along the edge of the lake would provide the easiest route to meet up with the man for continued exploration Melissa soon found herself carrying a dog and facing a tree that effectively prevented her from continuing along the lake shore. Hardly phased, Melissa opted to go around the tree and continue on...however, in a country such as Korea where the forest floors and mountains are actually quite thick with vegetation, this proved a difficult and formidable task. Within minutes, angry vines were lashing out at both Lady and Melissa, preventing the ascension to higher ground. When vines weren't grabbing clothes and hair, cobwebs were in the waiting ready to stick to increasingly sweaty skin. A close look at one of these webs inhabitants resulted in a shriek and quick escape back to the lake shore where the Lady and the Mrs. chose to back track completely before finally arriving in the presence of their beloved Man.

Together, as a family, free from vines and spiders in their hair, the trio explored some safer ground, captured a few family photos (that's correct, the photos are post vine wrestling!) and made their way into town to enjoy an evening of video games (for Mike) and wine-sipping (for Melissa) with a couple of friends.

And so began the fifth year of marriage.

A Road-Trip for Chuseok

Upon returning to Korea at the end of August, the Harrington's, namely Mike, began the process of buying a car and acquiring a Korean driver's license, the process of which may require it's own story/article/blog post. Regardless, the couple purchased the fine specimen that is a Kia Matiz named Geumi from dear friends (who-ought-to-return-to-Korea-rather-than-establish-life-in-the-states) and anticipated road tripping it up with their sweet 3.5 legged Lady Annyeong.

Fortunately, Korea provides a healthy bit of vacation for foreign English teachers mid-September (whilst the Korean population offers thanks for the 'harvest' and honors their ancestors during the holiday known as chu-seok) and the couple, having failed to plan a legitimate overseas or Jeju-bound trip for the 5-day weekend, giddly embarked on a short day trip in their little white Geumi Matiz.

Free to hit the road when they so pleased, the couple made their way out of Daejeon between 9:30 and 10:00 and headed West. The road trip took them to Chilgapsan Provincial Park where they received gestures that indicated Lady was in fact, not allowed into the park, at this entry, on this day, ever...(the couple is not entirely sure as rumors abound that pets are allowed into provincial parks, but not national parks, therefore, an investigation soon be undertaken). Regardless, the park allowed for a small bit of parking lot walking for Lady Annyeong and a short bit of Chilgapsan exploration by the man Harrington.

The trip continued forth until the couple passed through Boryeong and arrived at Daecheon Beach. Boryeong is famous for mud and more specifically a mud festival which tends to be a big hit amongst foreigners who like things dirty, the destination was however marked by eating raw fish and strolling along the beach for our beloved Harrington family. Sights along the beach included fishermen, foreigners swimming and playing chicken and an unimaginable number of creepy crawly bugs that went insane upon feeling the vibrations of humanoid footfalls.

From Daecheon, the Harrington's swung back east, toward Daejeon where all three Harrington's unloaded and spent the evening in full out relaxation mode.