Upon arriving in South Korea we at The Harrington Times worked hard to cover all the bases regarding stories from the Harrington's recent world travels while offering up-to-the-minute reports on their Korean lifestyle. In September and October we presented some 'Looking Back' stories regarding summer 2010 travels. Unfortunately, with the zeal and attention that the Harrington's give toward living their lives to the utmost, many of these 'Looking Back' posts featured home videos captured by the Harrington's during their travels. Well, with a bit of extra time on our hands and a browsing through the YouTube archives of the Harrington's we at THT realize we've left bits and pieces of the summer adventures out of our faithful reporting. So it is, we return to the series 'Looking Back' and hope to fill in the missing pieces and images over the next few weeks or months to properly document the life and times of the Harringtons.
You may recal that the primary reason the Harrington's traveled during the summer of 2010 was spurred by their desire to attend the World Cup in South Africa. Having enjoyed their game and a few sights in and around Cape Town, the couple made their way into a Township for their last night in South Africa. Each township experience the couple had while in South Africa was beautiful and powerful. Two such moments, from one special day, were caught on camera.
During the tour and their night in Khayelitsha the Harrington's had the great pleasure of listening to this group of kiddos sing and learn with great joy and enthusiasm.
The Harrington's also had the opportunity to meet this woman, who goes by the name Beauty. She willingly and humbly shared her story with the Harrington's: her story of AIDS, abandonment, dreams and hopes. She shared her struggles and her joys. She shared her heart. Her story is one the Harrington's were honored to hear and hope to remember for all time. Here, we offer our readers a chance at hearing that same story, from the mouth of Beauty herself.
Stay tuned for additional long over due articles regarding the Harrington's summer travels as well as regular updates regarding life in Korea.
While wondering around Cape Town mid-July, the Harrington's found themselves, more than once enjoying the sights and sounds of the Victoria and Alfred Waterfront. The waterfront was constantly buzzing with people, performers and boats coming and going. Shops lined the walks offering a mix of Africa-themed goods, World-Cup souveniers, various culinary options and general run of the mill goods expected from a shopping center.
Some would say Mr. Harrington is a huge bum for not writing about the World Cup sooner. Others would say he just doesn't have the words to express how awesome the World Cup in South Africa was. Still others would say, "C'mon, dude, stop yapping and get on with it!". All of the above statements have truth to them. Well, Mr. Harrington is finally succombing to the promptings of his lovely bride, overcoming his own laziness, and actually writing about the World Cup now. Soon, it will all be a fond, slightly distant memory.
Even though the Harrington's only attended one game, they were in South Africa for over a week of the World Cup festivities... and the atmosphere was sizzling. Especially after having witnessed the original campions (Uruguay) defeat the last remaining African team (Ghana) in a shoot out. Mr. Harrington could rant and rave about this match, and how Uruguays forward Louis Suarez's purposeful goal tending prevented Ghana from winning the match at the end of overtime, but he will try to restrain himself. Let it be known, however, that Louis Suarez is on Mr. Harrington's "Most Despised" list...and this less for the split second last ditch effort handball to save a goal (which any soccer fan would say was a necessary act), and more for the celebration that followed when Ghana missed the ensuing penalty kick, ensuring a penalty shoot out, which Ghana eventually lost. If Ghana had won that match, they Harrington's most likely would have been able to witness an African team playing on African soil, in the most advanced match ever for an African nation at the World Cup. However, Suarez spoiled that dream. Whew, that was a mouthful.
Anyways, a few days after this match. The Harrington's had the pleasure of attending the 3rd/4th place match (Germany vs. Uruguay) with their good friends, and recently married, Mallory and Abram Heller. After a day of festivities at the fan park, across the street from their couchsurfer's place, they all headed to the stadium a little early with the hopes of finding other friends, Ryan and Andrew. They went to the gate they had planned to meet at, waited a while looking for Ryan and Andrew, and eventually went back to their gate and walked into the stadium after pausing to buy a Germany jersey, and t-shirt. It turns out, Ryan and Andrew had seen us, but were inside the gates already.
The walk into the stadium got consistently louder as the thousands of vuvuzelas erupted all around them. The Harrington's ticket said Level 2, row 10, so they assumed they were in the upper deck. They were VERY pleasantly surprised when after showing the security guard their ticket, they were pointed down...towards the field. They ended up only 10 rows back from the field, right on the corner! Absolutely fabulous seats! With the great seats, came an excellent game...possibly one of the best of the entire cup. Germany beat Uruguay 3-2, but not before Uruguay's star player, Diego Forlan, narrowly missed a free kick at the very end of the game. Kudos to Germany for sticking it to Uruguay. Mr. Harrington, along with a large percentage of the game's attendants, booed everytime Suarez touched the ball. Just the name brings a snarl to his face now, and hearing it is like hearing a swear word. If Mr. Harrington ever accuses someone of being a Suarez...know that it is NOT a compliment.
The following day, the Harrington's again attended the fan fest near their couchsurfer's place to witness, on the big screen, Spain's first ever World Cup championships. The team the Harrington's had predicted to win from the beginning had done it. Thanks to a lovely volley by Iniesta, and some brilliant saves by Casillas. Viva la Espana!
The Harrington's experience at this World Cup, tho short, has rooted in them the desire to attend future World Cup's, for a longer period of time. Without a doubt, if anyone ever has the opportunity to attend one, do so! It's simply amazing.
2014 World Cup is in Brazil
2018 World Cup will be in Europe
2022 World Cup might be in the USA. Go to www. gousabid.com to learn more about the USA bid.
Early in July, the Harrington's enjoyed a day of adventure with numerous wild animals from Cheetahs to Monkeys and Birds to Elephants. Readers may remember our articles -- Walking with the Wild Cats and One Stop, Two Great Escapes; the following home videos re-capture these two stories, we our readers will enjoy!
The day of the township tour was the day Mike and Melissa Harrington first met Miss Vicky or Vicky's B&B. Hearing her story and being in her hom, the couple new that a night with Vicky would round out their South African experience as nothing else could. Little did they know, just how fun, entertaining, informative and experiential a night in Khayelitsha would be.
Vicky had been operating her B&B for a number of years now. She opened up when her home was just a township "shack" and allowed visitors an inside look as to how life in a township takes place. Upon arrival, the Harringtons dropped their bags and then, as per request, were escorted to the daycare which was run just behind the B&B. At the daycare, Mr. and Mrs. Harrington were handed spoons and cartons of yogurt which they proceeded to feed to children 2-4 years old. Most children stared wide-eyed at the couple who were a litte less than sure as to what the normal feeding procedure was. Eventually, each child had enjoyed their afternoon snack so the Harrington's with only a few yogurt smears on their clothes, made their way upstairs to help with the older children as well as hear some enthusiastic singing from the crew of youngsters.
As parents and older siblings came to pick the kiddos up from school the Harrington's returned to Vicky's B&B where they soon met other township visitors, heard a wild tale about South African weddings and were eventually introduced to a young man who would happily take the couple on a walking tour of the township. Following the walking tour, the couple were entered into the games, energy and excitement of Vicky's children. The kids were thrilled to look at ALL the couples travel photos held on the memory card as well as play ALL of the videos stored on the Flip camcorder. In the process, more than a few more photos were taken.
After a large and filling dinner, Mr. and Mrs. Harrington were entertained and engaged in numerous clapping games until it was the children's (and the Harrington's) bedtime. One night in Khayalitsha is one night that will be forever remembered.
What can one write about Robben Island? It housed hundreds if not thousands of political prisoners throughout the Apartheid. It sits more than a 30 minute ferry ride away from the mainland. Barely visible from the Waterfront. It is both beautiful and haunting.
The Harrington's tour began with a guide name Craig who spoke with passion and wisdom about the prisons history and inmates. He explained to guests not only the textbook history of Apartheid but also imparted the beautiful and not so beautiful truths of the legacy left by Apartheid. He talked of the deeply ingrained fears that still lurk beneath the surface of whites towards coloreds, coloreds toward blacks and all manner of combinations. He talked of the psychological impact Apartheid made on his nations people. Apartheid wasn't simply the separation of people based on the color of their skin, but a process of creating mistrust and fear among the people groups so they would "naturally" separate themselves - believing that was the safest option. This he said, is still evidenced by the way life continues in South Africa.
But Craig also told the story of forgiveness and reconciliation. He spoke of the nations desire to "Forgive, but never forget." To hold on to the lesson of the past. To avoid such a catastrophy in the future. To forfiet seeking revenge and choosing rather to look past the color of ones skin and offer forgiveness and move toward renewal and reconciliation.
Following the island tour with Craig, guests were then introduced to their prison guide. Each prison guide on Robben Island was at some point, a political prisoner. Therefore, each tour is not merely the history of the island but more importantly the personal story of an individual prisoner. Our guide showed us the various cells were prisoners continued to be separated and treated differently based on the color of their skin - receiving more or less food and other amenities based on that color. The tour showcased their sleeping mats, the coutyard, various prison cells which included stories of prisoners who stayed their and of course Nelson Mandela's cell.
The entire experience and the entire day left the Harrington's contemplating a number of things: forgiveness, hatred, racism, reconciliation, peace, and in general; how to live as responsible members of this planet.
Following the visit to the District 6 Museum, the Harrington's, accompanied by Brian Smith, made their way into the townships. Townships were the response of the government to the forced removal of citizens in District 6 and other similar Districts around the nation of South Africa. At first the townships appear an image of poverty. House upon house, corrugated tin roofs, outhouses, trash in the streets and a few stray dogs. However, a morning with a good tour guide will give guests a much deeper understanding of what makes up the townships.
With nearly 2/3 of the population of Cape Town living in the townships, they are nothing short of life and activity. Numerous entrepeneurs post signs outside their homes advertising haircuts at So-and-So's Barber Shop or various grocery needs. Within minutes of entering the township of Langa, Mr. Smith inquired of Mr. and Mrs. Harrington whether or not they were hungry. He then pointed to the left and described a local favorite, smileys: boiled sheeps heads which, having been boiled, lips pulled back; seem to be smiling at the diner. The Harrington's passed, thankful for the simple breakfast of toast they were able to consume in the morning.
The Harrington's were taken into what used to be old hostels, where only men used to stay when working in the area but since Apartheid have been converted into housing for whole families. One room, no bigger than a small American bedroom, was home to three families. Parents slept on beds in the room while all the children from the 22 families sharing the 'hostel' shared a common floor. This of course is the worst case scenario and is related in large part to availability rather than poverty. Each of these families could afford one of the larger township houses, but are patiently waiting on the government to build more. It was in this neighborhood that the Harrington's received their first lesson in Ubuntu. The concept of unity amongst all of humanity. A concept they would soon see up close.
The Harrington's continued on their way and eventually arrived in Khayelitsha where they were to have the opportunity to meet with some of the communities outstanding citizens, entrepuneurs and practicers of Ubuntu. First they met Beauty, a woman with a beautiful story who will soon earn her own article in the Harrington Times. For now, suffice it to say that Beauty is giving this world Ubuntu by teaching women in her community to sew, for free. The couple then met Vicky owner of a Bed and Breakfast which Mr. and Mrs. Harrington quickly fell in love with and decided to book their last South African night there. The story of Vicky and her Bed and Breakfast is yet another story which will require it's own article. Behind Vicky's was a day care of sorts, started as a way to protect children and give them early education opportunities. The Harrington's enjoyed the smiles on the children's faces and the many songs they sung/shouted at the couple before they made their way out of the townships and into the city of Cape Town.
On July 19th, Mike and Melissa Harrington exited their hostel on Long Street and entered a day of reflection. Brian Smith, tour guide for African Eagle, met the couple at the front door of the hostel and helped them into the tour van. Mr. Smith greeted the couple and imparted the news that they were the only two on the tour this day, meaning the tour could be more personal and more imformative as well as more easily managed for their afternoon committment. Mr. and Mrs. Harrington had had many doubts about going on a Township Tour, fearing it would weigh heavily on the voyeuristic experience and would lack a practical, tangible, hands-on aspect. Immediately, their guide put them at ease with his gentle explanation of what would take place as well as his own connection to the townships as well as the tour companies committment to giving back to the townships.
With anticipation and a readiness to learn the Harrington's went with Mr. Smith to the District 6 Museum. District 6 was an area in Cape Town where many blacks, Indians, coloreds (term used in South Africa to refer to those of mixed race) and even Jewish families lived. As the Apartheid Government set in, this districts people were forced to re-locate. The district had gained the governments attention for it's prime location and beautiful views of the waterfront and Table Mountain, it was then determined that the area would be designated as "for whites only." The Museum is dedicated to the history and lives of those who lived there, in community prior to their forced removal.
The Museum showcased various momentos from the times that were shared and enjoyed in District 6 and their forced removal throughout the 1960s. Mr. Smith added to the history shown in the Museum by sharing his own stories: telling the Harrington's of the views he and his brother used to enjoy out their window and that which they saw from their parents window. He told the couple that Harrington was a main street, and seeing the couples name had triggered many memories of playing on Harrington Street with childhood friends. The Museum was filled with personal reflections such as these as guests had been encouraged to leave notes and fill in their names and memories on a large ariel map spread across the main entryways floor.
Although the couple had only an hour or so in the Museum, they had begun a long process of reflecting. They considered the ease and beauty of their lives. The hardship and brokenness of the worlds people. The ugliness of history, that in South Africa, Germany, the USA and many other nations. The truth that similar stories are currently being played out in countries such as Sudan, India, Burma and many others. The complexity of it all. The difficulty in changing things. The confusion and frustration of determining our individual and community role in such injustices. The Grace of God. The imperfection of a fallen world. The promise of a brighter tomorrow, of eternity. And, within minutes, the couple would see the strength and beauty of the same families who were relocated from District 6, their resilency and love for one another shining through the ugliness that had been Apartheid.
Ubuntu The word encompasses a myriad of concepts. An African Word Meaning... Compassion Love Assistance Giving Back to your Community Loving your Neighbor as Yourself Seeing others as Your Brother. Your Sister.
It's found in the townships of South Africa. Ubuntu. Making sure your neighbor can eat. Making sure your brothers are earning an honest living. Are you well off? Hire a caretaker, a maid, your brother, your sister. Do you have a skill? Teach it. Share it. Empower others. Have you seen a problem? Children being abused or left alone? Someone is hungry? Work toward finding a solution. Start a childcare center. Prepare extra food.
Ubuntu was the word that encompassed beauty. The Harrington's came face to face with Ubuntu in the townships, on tours, and in lands beyond South Africa. On Mandela Day, July 18th, the Nation of South Africa encouraged it's citizens to give 67 minutes of their time for "Ubuntu" because Nelson Mandela gave 67 years of his life to polictical activism. A political activism that has offered the world a fresh and beautiful view of forgiveness and reconciliation.
South Africa's not perfect. Neither are we. But all of us would be wise to put a little more 'ubuntu' into our daily grind.
A Cape Peninsula Tour is an absolute MUST when spending a week in Cape Town, South Africa. On a gray, misty morning the Harrington’s alongside the Heller’s made their way into Cape Town to be picked up by BazBus at their main office. Hesitatingly the crew along with four other tourists loaded the bus and hoped for the sun to break through the clouds. The first stop allowed the group to see an overfed seal and feel enough chill in their bones that they eagerly reloaded the bus. Driving the coast afforded outstanding views of the 12 Apostles, waves crashing on the cliffs and the lush greenery of Southern Africa.
One highlight of visiting the Cape is Boulders Beach, the place African Penguins call home. Aside from strong fecal smells, the Harrington’s and other guests of the beach enjoyed watching the penguins waddle along the peach, poke their heads out of the bush, and screech at tourists from underneath the boardwalk. Having seen more penguins than expected, the bus was reloaded and the crew headed to the Cape’s National Park.
Upon arriving at the National Park each tourist was outfitted with a bicycle and enjoyed a short bike ride down through the park before arriving at their picnic stop. With energy levels renewed, the group reloaded into the bus and made their way further down the Peninsula. Hiking was the next order of business and all tourists were grateful for the sunshine that had finally decided to make an appearance. The views again were enjoyable and at times stunning, a perfect way for the Harrington’s to begin their stay in Cape Town and for the Heller’s to finalize their time in South Africa.
Relatively convenient. Always fun. More comfortable than expected.
BazBus takes South Africa’s backpackers from hostel to hostel along South Africa’s most popular routes. The Harrington’s used their services about half-a-dozen times, made a few friends, caught a few winks of shut eye, watched District 9 and Avatar, and made it from one destination to the next all in thanks to BazBus.
It is with no great importance that we bring you this story or perhaps snippit, regarding the Harrington’s travels along the Garden Route. Twice, however, the Harrington’s stayed at Santos Express, a hostel set up in an old train located right on the beach in Mossel Bay, South Africa. The first morning, the Harrington’s were woken to the most splendid rising of the sun and crashing of the waves they had ever witnessed, highlighted by the fact that they were lying in bed, still half asleep.
Their second morning however greeted them with grey skies and a heavy mist. This morning they had hoped to go diving with Great White Sharks but instead found themselves stuck inside watching golf and catching up on a few odds and ends. All was not lost, as the couple took full advantage of the Santos Restaurant and enjoyed some of the most fabulous Calamari known to man before boarding the BazBus to make their way to Cape Town.
On their final day with CouchSurfer host, Elaine, the Harrington’s made their way out to Addo National Park to see what they could see. Second only to their day in The Crags, Addo provided the Harrington’s their best opportunity to see the wildlife and plant life of South Africa. The first animal they spotted, and consistently thereafter, was the Kudu, a deer like mammal with horns which twist and curve into the dry African air. Seeing this animal and hearing its name from Elaine, the Harrington’s finally knew what exactly a Kudu Burger was. The trio continued driving through the park hoping to spot elephants or zebras or water buffalo. However, before any of these animals would consider making a showing Elaine spotted the endangered Dung Beetle on the road. The park is committed to protecting these insects and has posted numerous signs warning drivers not to crush these rare gems. Unfortunately, the beetle we spotted was not rolling a ball of dung, but we enjoyed watching his soldier-like strut as he made his way across the road.
Continuing on the trio was able to spot Timon and Pumba, a Jackyl, more Kudu, another Dung Beetle, various birds and finally a few elephants. The car full of viewers enjoyed watching the baby elephants trunk wrestle one another while admiring the majesty and beauty of these giant grey mammals. Mike took a good number of photos until it was time to head out of the gates while watching the sky turn shades of orange and pink. The perfect ending to a perfect African day.
CouchSurfing during the World Cup took on a different face in South Africa as she hosted the world. Many CouchSurfers in the Stadium Cities were unavailable to host either to having family and friends in town, wanting to earn an extra buck, or simply being overwhelmed by the amount of requests from experienced and inexperienced CouchSurfers from all over the world. However, the Harrington’s were fortunate to find one more than gracious host awaiting them in Port Elizabeth (PE), South Africa. The couple first met Elaine when she came to pick them up from their BazBus drop off, entirely too late in the evening. Their host however was all Welcome and Hospitality: ” there’s tea on the counter, here are your beds, would you like a muffin? Let me introduce you to the other surfers.” These moments left the Harrington’s confident again in the power and beauty of CouchSurfing.
Over a period of four days, Mike and Melissa experienced not only the hospitality of their host, Elaine, but also of the other CouchSurfing guests. Randy and Nathalie from France were quick to give Mike and Melissa a ride their first morning to retrieve their tickets. Tracy from Australia shared valuable information and great conversation upon arrival and the following day during a driving tour of the city conducted of course, by our host. And a few days later, JB from Alabama continued the sharing of information and enthusiasm. It did not take long for Mike and Melissa to feel at home and comfortable with this group of CouchSurfers – happy to experience the peace and comfort that is found in CouchSurfing’s brand of hospitality.
The couple’s time with Elaine was well spent, learning some of the history and sites of Port Elizabeth. A driving tour even led the couple, their host and Tracy to the beach where some of Germany’s team was taking a pre-game walk! On top of Elaine’s initial generosity the couple was also thrilled to discover Elaine lived across the street from the FIFA Fan Park where they would be able to catch a shuttle to the stadium and watch the final match on Sunday free of charge, on a big screen with hundreds of South Africans and visitors from around the world.
Following the excitement of the World Cup and the moving on of all Elaine’s other guests, the Harrington’s host once again outdid herself by driving the couple to and around Addo National Park near Port Elizabeth. The day was spent looking for Elephants, spotting Kudu, Warthogs, a Water Buffalo, Jackyl, Dung Bettle and finally numerous elephants. Their final day was brought to a close with a fat juicy steak at one of Elaine’s favorite PE restaurants. With their bellies full and their hearts content, the Harrington’s laid down for their fourth night in a row of deliously wonderful slumber.
Making a full day of adventure and animals on July 8th, the Harrington's ended their day at the Elephant Sanctuary. They were welcomed to the sanctuary with a hot mug of rooibos before being lead out to meet the elephants. Three elephants hailed from Botswana while the others came by way of Kruger National Park. Those from Botswana were to be under the care of the Harrington's and crew for the next hour. The group learned that these three elephants each a story to tell, a story of abuse and abandonment. Two had had their trunks caught in traps causing them to lose about 6 inches off the tip of their trunk while the other was kept as a pet until he became to large for the space. So here, at the sanctuary, they were learning to be wild, to feed themselves and to become family with eachother and the other three elephants.
Three at a time guests took turns holding their hands out to an elephant who would gently rest his trunk in their hand and be lead down a short trail. At the end of the short walk each guest had the opportunity to watch some "tricks", see the mouths, ears, tails, and feet of an elephant and of course take a few photos. It was then time for other guests to lead the elephants back to our starting point where they would be fed and groomed.
Each guest had the opportunity to feed the three elephants a variety of pumpkin and carrots. As soon as the bowls were empty, the elephants were walking away from the dinner table and preparing to be groomed. Guests then took turns brushing the elephants and having a few last words and photos with the gentle grey giants. After a short class on the anatomy and lifespan on elephants it was time for guests to return to their hostels or hotels, but not until taking a moment to gaze out into the stunning landscape of South Africa.
Following their walk with the cheetahs and viewing of African wild cats, caracals, servals and a leopard, the Harrington's and crew made their way down the street Monkeyland and Birds of Eden. Monkeyland provided a wide variety of monkeys to view, to hear and to catch on film. The squirrel monkey's were particularly active and offered some great entertainment as they ran, jumped and dived from tree to tree, from ground to feeding station. The crew was also fortunate enough to see one of the parks three gibbons up close and personal as he swung from the branches and came down to offer some beter photographic oppotunities. Before leaving Monkeyland the group of six also had the good fortune of acting out their own monkey like behavior as they crossed one of the world's longest swinging bridges (longest according to the guide).
Having seen the monkey's and made it across the swinging bridge the group walked a few meters across a parking lot and began their exploration of Birds of Eden. The aviary provided a great variety of brightly colored macaws, pheasants and even one large, brown bat hanging from the top of the netting. Chirps, caws, songs and sounds surrounded the Harrington's as they walked the boardwalk and tried to spot the birds who made the music which filled the air.
With their fill of birds and monkeys and having a lunch date to make, the Harrington's and friends made their way to a local winery for tapas and wine before heading to their final destination of their wild day.
On July 8th, Mike and Melissa Harrington along with their comrades Abram, Mallory, Andrew and Ryan enjoyed a walk on the wild side. As part of a package deal, the group began their day on a sunrise walk with cheetahs. The cheetahs are residents of Tenikwa Rehabilitation Center in The Crags, South Africa. The center provides a safe place for a variety of wild cats that would otherwise suffer at the hands of reasonably upset farmers (imagine the conflict of wolves and farmers near Yellowstone). Part of the center includes opportunities to walk these powerful and beautiful cats when the sun rises and again when it sets. The concept is interesting and intriguing as guests ponder the necessity of walking one of the world's fastest animals. Regardless, it is an experience that can hardly be beat.
With the sun casting it's brilliance over the golden grasses and through the green trees and bushes each participant finds themselves being introduced to two Cheetahs. The Harrington's and crew are introduced to two brothers, Duma and Zulu, the next hour or so will be spent taking turns holding on to the leads, trying to capture a good shot and petting this large, muscular purring kittens. The experience is exhilarating! Each cat possesses such great strength and beauty and to spend such a significant amount of time in their presence is astounding. They lead you through the brush with occasional sprints and moments when you are forced to drop the lead. Every moment feels like the most significant, most extraordinary of ones' lifetime. As the imagery of the lion and the lamb is brought to the forefront of one's thoughts, they must give thanks for this creature and all of creation.
With hardly a moment to truly process what they had just experienced, the Harrington's and crew were sitting down to a cup of hot tea, muffins and scones, preparing to meet the other cats housed at the center and for their next wildlife adventure at MonkeyLand.