Harringtons in Korea: The Soul of Asia

Unfortunately, all journey's must eventually come to an end. So, with the smoky smell of the no-rae bang still clinging to their hair and minds buzzing with lyrics, the Harrington's got themselves together by 5:30 am and made their way by taxi to the Dunsan Bus Terminal to catch the bus to Incheon International Airport. Remembering the problems they had earlier faced in finding storage at Seoul Station, the crew had decided to go first to the airport to drop off luggage before heading into Seoul by the Airport Express line. Fortunately, the bus ride from Daejeon to Incheon afforded the Harrington's an extra 2.5 hours of napping before arriving at the airport.

With luggage taken care of, the Harrington's arrived at Seoul station, snagged a taxi and made their way to Gyeongbukgung Palace in time to watch the changing of the guards. Wanting to squeeze a little more excitement out of their hours in Seoul the Harrington's opted out of exploring the palace in it's entirety and made their way toward Insa-dong follwoing a mish-mash of typical Korean lunch items (kimbap, udong, pork cutlet, etc.) Insa-dong then provided the glorious souvenir shopping opportunity that the Harrington's had thus far been longing for. In and out of shops filled with the perfect gifts for family and friends, M&M worked hard to keep track of 'their' foreigners amongst all the other Insa-dong foreigners. Finally, with shopping accomplished and time winding down the crew headed back to Seoul station to part ways.

Warm, long embraces, a few tears and wishes for a happy new year sent 4 Harrington's U.S. bound and 2 Harrington's Daejeon bound.

Having family visit during the heart of the holiday season was a true blessing and joy for the Harrington duo. Saying good-bye is always difficult. But knowing that four of the most precious people in their lives now had a deeper understanding of the duo's love for Korea and the people here made the parting that much more managable.

Now, who's coming next year? 2010 it was Haleh...2011 the Harrington's...and 2012...???

(Perhaps what's more important is knowing whether or not M&M are sticking around Korea until 2012, and that's just something we don't know yet...)

Harringtons in Korea: Meat, Boats and the No-rae Bang

After a day with middle school students it was time for the Harrington's to reassure the family that life in Korea wasn't only about working for a living.  Friday night was M&M's opportunity to introduce their lovely family to their lovely friends.  So while Harrington's napped, co-worker and most fabulous friend Hyun-hee came over to 519 Galma before the Harrington 6 and Hyun-hee made their way to the OEC for amazing hot choco and lattes.  With caffeine working in their veins and preparing some of the crew for an all-nighter, the group of 7 then made their way to Gung-dong where they met up with Paul and eventually Hak-chol (Hyun-hee's husband) to enjoy Korean BBQ and Korean cold noodles, which were, to Katie's surprise, cold.

With full bellies the crew of now 9 made their way to the Rum-boat, a pirate themed bar where they keep the music volume under control so as to encourage and allow for conversation, to meet additional friends of the Harrington's.  Throughout the course of the evening and drinking beer on a Pirate Ship, the visiting Harrington's met Garrett, Alla, Josiah, Jenelle, Whitney, Jonathan, Harris, Aaron, Uzma and the infamous Joe Berry.  Conversation was easy and steady as the visiting Harrington's began to understand that it's not just delicous food and cute children that have M&M sticking around in Korea for the time, it's the caliber of friends they've made that would have been impossible had they not placed 6,000 miles between them and 'home'.

As the night carried, the barely-over-27 Harrington's made their way back to 519 to get some well-deserved rest before the upcoming flight, where as Mike, Melissa, Molly and Katie made their way, with a slew of friends, to a crappy no-rae bang for an awesome no-rae bang experience.

A couple of highlights from the no-rae bang...

My Chick Bad - Ludacris (performed by a teddy bear of a friend with large eyes and killer skills on the microphone)

Diggin' on You - TLC (HUGE no-rae bang fail by Melissa...BUT huge win on igniting middle school memories)

With various pop songs playing in their heads on repeat, the Harrington's under-27 returned to 519 at 3:30 am for a 'nap' before getting out of their warm blankets, strapping on some bags and heading to Seoul for their final day together in the Land of Kimchi.

Harringtons in Korea: K-Pop Slam with Nameson Middle School

As the Harrington's time in Daejeon wound toward the end, they made yet another trip into the educational realm of South Korea, this time tackling a Korean Middle School. Waking up early and sharing one small Asian-sized bathroom, six Harrington's made their way to school on Friday the 30th of December, 1 to Samcheon Elementary school to finish out week one of Winter Camp, 5 to Nameson Middle School to play numerous rounds of K-Pop Slam with loads of sweet Korean students.

Per hospitality routine, the Harrington's were served numerous paper cups of Korean green tea, introduced to principals, vice principals, teacher's and students. They were handed cakes, plants and more cups of tea and coffee. Each outing into the middle school hallways elicited countless shouts of 'Hello!' and 'I love you!' Lunch was typical: rice, soup, kimchi and unidentifiable otherness with bitty fish. So it was, the Harrington's passed the day as the biggest group of celebrities to hit the Nameson Middle School scene, learned loads of K-Pop songs and performers and were filled to the brim, yet again, with Korean hospitality shown in a shower of gifts and snacks.

Harringtons in Korea: Samsung Blue Fangs

Following traditional markets and ice-bars, the Harrington's made their way to the Hanbat Stadium to cheer on Daejeon's most impressive sports team, the Samsung Blue Fangs. With all-star beast of a Canadian Gavin on the team Samsung Blue Fangs consistently put on an amazing show of athleticism and competition. Mike and Melissa were excited to show off their 'home-town pride' and introduce the rest of the family to an experience which is unique to the world of Korean sporting events.

Arriving about half an hour early the Harrington's watched the girls team finish out their game before being instructed in a wide variety of cheers which would soon be used to bring the Samsung Blue Fangs to a victory. Elaborate cheers and accompanying actions were a constant as the Harrington's watched volley after volley, spike after spike and serve after serve. The best break from these routines came from the Blue Fangs mascots who pulled off a stunning combination of K-pop style dance routine, gymnastics and break-dancing. All in a night's work for the Samsung Blue Fangs team and supportive mascots.

Getting There: Hanbat Stadium is nearest to Subway station Jugan-no. Exit 3 perhaps (which ever takes you opposite of the Flying Pan and past Angels-in-Us Coffee/The Mill). From here it's about a 10-15 minute walk, or numerous buses head in that general direction or for base taxi fare you can request Hanbat Stadium (stadium = 경기장 = gyeong-gi-jang)

Blue Fangs Schedule is available here.

Harringtons in Korea: Tradition and the 'Ice' Bar

Having denied the Harrington's snacking privleges the day before, it was now time to encourage full-out snacking and taste-testing behavior at Daejeon's traditional market and the street food vendors of old downtown. Making their way through the market the crew (which consisted of all but Mike Harrington) enjoyed mini-red bean paste cakes, dumplings, fried shrimp, fresh and deliciously sweet strawberries, 16,000 strings honey candy, and much more. Between snacks, the Harrington's were amazed by the variety of creatures which not only live in the sea, but that are consumed in relatively high amounts judging by their populous in the market alone. Assaulted by the smells of fermenting veggies, sea creatures and fresh produce the Harrington's were soon underground enjoying a bit of shopping and a bit more snacking (this time on fresh fruit juice and a caramel/cream waffle). With snacks and shopping out of the way and Mike joining up with the crew it was on to a quirky little 'ice' bar.

Since Mike had unfortunately been denied the opportunity to snack for the afternon, the ice bar afforded not only the option to drink some of Korea's finest brews, but to also chow down on a few snails, pretzels and hot Mexican chicken nachos. Enjoying the chilly atmosphere of this old downtown bar, the Harrington's shared a large pitcher and lot of laughs as snails flew into shirts and phallac ice sculptures were discovered. However, all the good times of the day shopping and snacking and throwing back a few brews could not compare to what was to come...

Harringtons in Korea: Students, Temples and Bamboo Rice

As Wednesday rolled around the Harrington clan began to feel a stronger sense of grace from at least one of the work institutions and after making a guest appearance at Samcheon Elementary School, the visiting Harringtons were honored to have a tour guide, in the form of Melissa Harrington, join them for exploring a nearby National Park. Their visit to the elementary school was highlighted by shy students shouting out their hellos and asking about favorite foods, actors and hobbies. They also had the pleasure of meeting the Vice Principal and a couple Korean teachers who best exemplified Korean hospitality.

After a few cups of tea, tangerines and other snacks the Harrington's made their way to City Hall Station by bus in order to head to the National Cemetary Sub station and catch the 107 for Gyreongsan (National Park) and Donghaksa (Temple) where the crew would spend the afternoon enjoying the great landscape of South Korea.

After enjoying an afternoon of meandering and snacking (lightly) on some chestnuts (this day there were strict rule regarding snacks as the planned dinner was known to be quite large and hearty as readers will soon see) the group boarded the 107 and made their way back to 519 Galma for a touch of rest before reuniting with Mike and making their way to Mannyeong-dong to enjoy a wide range of Korean fair and the spectacularly sticky and earthy bamboo rice.

Near Seoranam Church the bamboo rice restaurant offers an introduction to a number of Korean dishes including an amazing take on Japchae, numerous raw fish dishes and equally numerous fermented dishes. The meal is concluded with each diners choice of either rice steamed in a partial shoot of bamboo (which you can take as a souvenier and use to plant some flowers or hold your pens and pencils) or steamed in a large leaf - either option is equally earthy, delicious and a pleasant variant of the 'everyday' rice one is accustomed to in Korea.

The meal was further enjoyed as one of Melissa's co-teachers, Nam Hwa Sook and her daughter, Park Young-ah, joined the Harrington's and shared the evening discussing travels abroad, cultural quirks and breaking down the various dishes set out on the table. As each member of the clan worked those last few bites of rice into their mouths they were secretly grateful for the harsh rules regarding snacks that day and all rested well that evening with overstuffed bellies.

Harringtons in Korea: Gojuchang bulgogi and Screen Golf

While M&M spent the day slaving away teaching English, the Harrington crew explored Daejeon's National Science Museum, Kumdori Land and the National Cemetary. However, since M&M were not there and this blog is the work of M&M, this story refers only to Tuesday night, after the crew explored on their own and kept the 104 bus in business.

As should be expected, when M&M returned from their respective schools and days of teaching, they were ready for some grub. Wanting to get all the spicy dishes out of the way early in the week to better guarantee an enjoyable flight for the US-bound Harrington's, M&M escorted the crew to their number one favorite restaurant in all of Daejeon, located in Gung-dong. Cheap Pork Village (the English translation of the restaurant name) specializes in a go-chu-jang (red pepper sauce) bulgogi (in this case -thinly sliced pork meat). Worried about the heat factor, M&M ordered half spicy meat and half plain meat which worked out perfectly as the spice level was just a touch high for four of the Harrington six. Not only famous for this spicy pork dish, Cheap Pork Village also specializes in a cheesy fried rice that is most notable for it's 'cheese volcano' action upon completion. Needless to say, all Harrington bellies and tastebuds were beyond satisfied at the close of the meal.

With full bellies and one Harrington man's persistent desire to expose the other Harrington's to the joy and uniqueness that is screen-golf, the group walked for about 10 minutes before

Harringtons in Korea: Dalkgalbi and a Few Rounds of Homebrew

After full days of work, Mike and Melissa returned to 519 Galma to discover a crew of resting, snacking, happy Harrington's. Without much direction from M&M for the day, the four visiting Harrington's made their way back toward Time World/Dunsan Area and enjoyed exploring, shopping and returning home to rest since it was, afterall, a vacation. With M&M back at home and becoming increasingly hungry those of the group under the age of 27 made their way to a Chicken and Hof for a few shots of Strawberry Soju before heading to a nearby dalk-galbi restaurant. (The Harringtons who are just barely over 27 opted to stay at 519 Galma and rest just a litte more).
Returning home the crew took on the challenge of taste-testing a variety of brews from Mike's brewing operations. A few bottles later half the Harrington's were ready to snooze while the other three stayed awake for a couple games of Redneck Life before dozing off for the night.

Harringtons in Korea: Christmas Day Celebrations

Awaking on Christmas morning, each member of the Harrington clan investigated their respective stocking which were lined along the couch, with care. Filled with the cuteness and greatness that only Asia can afford the Harrington clan was soon ready to pop a Gingerbread Scone in their mouth, shower and head to the airport and begin the trek into Seoul.

From Incheon Airport the crew loaded onto the Airport Express (AREX) train and found themselves disembarking at Seoul Station 50 minutes later.  Intending to lock up some luggage, grab a bite to eat and explore the city to celebrate Christmas the Harrington's were soon faced with the reality that every locker in the train station and neighboring department store were occupied.  Bellies growling, the crew made their way to a Korean restaurant in the station, hoping after an hour they'd find the locker space needed.  Lunch allowed the visiting Harrington's to enjoy a variety of Korean dishes including Dolsot (hot stone pot) and Raw Beef Bibimbap (rice, veggies, spicy sauce), Galbitang (beef rib soup with sweet potato noodles) Bulgogi 'something-or-other' (marinaded beef in broth with sweet potato noodles), Paejeon (Korean style pancake, this one with octopus) and the usual gamut of side dishes including kimchi, radish kimchi and various greens.

Following up their lunch, the locker hunt continued. Unfortunately, lockers were still unavailable and the crew opted to board the KTX and make way for Daejeon and a 'homey' Christmas celebration at 519 Galma. Entering 519 Galma the Harrington's were quickly introduced to the grandaughter and neice, Lady Annyeong.  There was no shortage of 'puppy' love between the two legged and 3.5 legged creatures and Lady continued to enjoy a week of high-frequency love, affection and attention.

Together, the Harrington's gathered around the Christmas tree, snacked on cheese and crackers and opened a wealth of Christmas gifts.  Following this gift unwrapping ceremony the Harrington's enjoyed a nice stroll to Time World where they made their way into a glass elevator and to Manna House to enjoy a dinner of shabu-shabu (that is, in English, swish-swish) before grabbing a Paris Baguette Christmas Cake (courtesy of M&M's phone company) and hitting up the no-rae bang for a few Christmas Carols, Beatles tunes and of course Sweet Caroline.  Overflowing with Christmas joy and ready to dig into the lovely Christmas Cake it was back to 519 Galma for cake, homemade eggnog and a rockus game of Redneck Life before calling it a day and drifting off to sleep.

Harringtons in Korea: Christmas Eve Arrivals and Celebrations

On December 24th, Mike and Melissa Made their way to Incheon International Airport to welcome in the Harrington clan.  After boarding the Airport bound bus from Dunsan bus terminal in Daejeon the couple made their way to Incheon Airport Guesthouse to add a touch of Christmas joy to their large, bunk-filled room.  This however did not occur until after sitting down at a Thai restaurant for a quick dish of Pad Thai down the street from the Guesthouse (and E-Mart subsequently).  With the room ready for Christmas Eve arrival and shenanigans the couple made their way to the airport to greet the Mom, Dad and Sisters X2.

Arriving at the airport Mike was rejected from exiting the back doors of the free shuttle bus and was seconds away from being hauled off. Fortunately, a little shuffling of Koreans later and Mike and Melissa were entering the airport to wait, at Gate B, for the Harrington's arrival.  Unfortunately Gate B failed the Harrington's. See for yourself.



Finally, with the whole family united and in the same space, the Harringtons in their full force headed back to Incheon Airport Guesthouse via the free airport shuttle. Once everyone settled into the room it was time for the Christmas Eve gift and rest before the big day of a Kristmas in Korea.